Review: Tresind Mumbai Maps An Imaginative Itinerary Of Indian Flavours

Every time I get a whiff of jeera aloo, I'm transported to my childhood. I'm back in school, uncovering my tiffin after hours of study. The flavourful diced potatoes, paired with soft roti, seem like the perfect replenishment. Besides, it could be easily shared among friends - few kids would say no to anything made of aloo. Recently, I was hit with the same tempting aroma while visiting a fine-dining restaurant. But my trip down memory lane was cut short when I grasped its provenance. I was being served Tresind Mumbai's take on jeera aloo, presented in the form of espuma (vegetable foam). I was not sure what to think of this reinvention. Two bites later, my sense of suspicion was turned into delight.

_{Prawns/Water chestnut and Asparagus, Zeera Aloo Espuma, Tomato Rasam. Photo Credit: Toshita Sahni}

Prawns & Asparagus, Zeera Aloo Espuma, served with freshly pressed Tomato Rasam, is part of Tresind Mumbai's new Degustation menu launched in March 2024. Apart from this 14-course meal, Chef Sarfaraz Ahmed has also curated a new Chef's Tasting Menu. Both offerings invite diners on a one-of-a-kind culinary voyage across India. Locally sourced ingredients, indigenous flavours and imaginative techniques have been brought together to design a memorable itinerary. While several dishes have been inspired by the bounty of winter, these are more than 'seasonal' menus.

_{Ghewar, Avocado Khachaloo, Chaat Seasoning. Photo Credit: Tresind}

The trip begins with an airily crisp Kohlrabi taco adorned with creamy yoghurt and crunchy sunchoke. It is a refreshing starter that whets your appetite for many more. The next course - a succulent Bun Kebab in a Roomali Roti Tartlet - roots you more firmly in the Indian landscape. I shall not give everything away.

_{Bun Kebab, Lamb, Roomali Roti Tartlet. Photo Credit: Toshita Sahni}

The joy of the journey here is the discovery of possibilities: What if dal vada batter was used to make a waffle? What if parmesan was incorporated into a moilee curry? What if the yellow ice cream roll on your plate tasted like Gujarati khandvi? There are many other treats in store, from savoury inventions like coconut kimchi to sweet experiments like black apple ice cream. Tresind's signature "Khichdi Of India" has been retained, and upgraded to include more ingredients.

_{Duck & Waffle. Ghee Roast, Curry Leaf Honey. Photo Credit: Tresind}

Tresind's holistic approach extends to drinks. You can request customised wine pairings or select your own favourites from the extensive menu. As for cocktails, Tresind has several innovative concoctions worth checking out. Among the new options, what stood out at our table was the Capriccio (Mirabeau gin, fresh green apple, passion fruit puree, tajin, sriracha, passionfruit and capers soda). The spice hits ever so slightly at the end, impressively balancing the other flavours. From the "House Special" category, try the simple indulgence of the vodka-based Blueberry Muffin at the end of your meal. You might be surprised to find that it captures the comforting notes of the baked treat in a cocktail glass.

_{Capriccio. Photo Credit: Toshita Sahni}

Tresind's new menu has theatrical elements but doesn't forget its foundations of flavour. It surprised me with its innovative reinventions of popular delicacies and humble ingredients. It's a gastronomic experience you cannot afford to miss. 

What: New menus at Tresind Mumbai

Where: Ground Floor Inspire BKC E, G Block BKC, Bandra Kurla Complex, Bandra East, Mumbai.